Thirst for Learning Meets Cuban Hospitality

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Casa Colonial at the Arco de Belen in Havana boasts bright blue painted doors contrasting with the yellow stucco of the courtyard walls for each of the well-appointed rooms. Those doors may present a challenge with their older locks and keys, but with the beauty and majesty of 12 feet of lumber and construction dating back to 1836, struggling with a lock is a small price to pay. Once inside, the theme of each abode soothes and/or delights as pink gardens or tropical birds beckon from the thin bed coverings and visitors can choose from air conditioning or an oscillating fan. Bottled water stored in the small refrigerator promises a cool drink for later. The beautifully tiled bath with all the necessary amenities is clearly adorned for incoming guests to leave feeling their needs were met.

Maria Elena Miqueli, the host and the wife of Leonardo Alvarez Miqueli, whose family has held possession of the home-turned-hostel for the entirety of both his life and the life of the building, proudly points to each aspect of the dwelling. Soon the U.S. group from Tennessee-based Global Citizens Adventure Corps discover that Maria is more than host at their lodging. With her mischievous grin and sparkling eyes, she will also play the role of translator of Cuban economics, culture, religion and more.

The guests will also soon learn that the comfort from this casa particular – a Spanish term for the equivalent of an Air BnB - comes from beyond the rooms. Maria’s family and friends busily prepare meals in the kitchen that also provides meals for the family as every space that can be allocated for visitors has been. The courtyard doubles as a gathering space, dance floor and dining room for a welcoming afternoon snack, breakfasts and dinners of whatever traditional delicacy Maria has conjured.

“Conjuring” it is, for meals in Cuba these days are delivered by a mixture of what seems like magic and perseverance. The line for bread around the corner from Maria’s walled oasis sometimes reaches around said corner. Maria celebrates a “good day” with arms overhead and a cheer because on this night she can serve her guests chicken roasted to perfection alongside cumin flavored rice and yucca. The victory of obtaining an essential is already a shared one as guests soon learn of the scarcity facing Cubans when a search for additional bottled water has already taken some guests to several stores where they left empty handed. The fortunate ones purchased the last four bottles from the sparse shelves.

Another proud owner, this time of a classic car painted pink, not because of daughters or grands but “because women like pink and I like money” – has already explained the cost of his fuel is triple on the black market, his only dependable source for this most precious commodity and a necessity for his taxi service.

Specifics from Maria reveal that her eggs for the group of 14 U.S. visitors were purchased 15 days before. Drinks were a month before. Some items were purchased two months ahead in order to ensure she would have sufficient amounts.

An introduction to her helpers reveals much. Maria is a retired economist garnering only $7 per month for her pension. Yamileth, her friend and kitchen companion, receives no pension at all. Helping to serve the meal is Maria’s daughter-in-law Maybelis, a brilliant student, Maria reports, and now a general surgeon and a manicurist, and digital creator. She makes more money doing nails than doing surgery.

Maria also calls Yamileth a ‘true Christian” because she doesn’t just talk about her faith, she lives it.

Faith is critical to Maria, not the church, she says. She thinks too many words are thrown about and sees too little action.

Twenty-five years ago, when organized religion was not an option, the family opened the courtyard for believers to gather. Maria and her husband made sure people were there by going to the public places and sharing the news. When warned about nearby police, she responded, “It’s ok. Christ is my lawyer.”

On the first night that the group gathered for a celebratory meal, Maria called on connections from her other “gig” as an entertainment emcee. A quartet in tuxes harmonized over songs from Havana’s past and a soloist known for touring with Buena Vista Social Club and accompanied by a guitarist of equal gifts soon had the tables alternating from awe to toe-tapping engagement.

Maria beams with the pride of introducing another group to her beloved Cuban music. But the weariness of the day is evident as she rests on the steps, slightly away from the stage. Lovely in her floral print, she soon cannot be contained, however. Restored by the beat and the beauty of her friends on stage and new ones around her tables, she is soon in the Conga line Yamileth has formed, circling the palm with the stars overhead and the laughter has moved from her eyes and is erupting for all to hear.

Global Citizen Adventure Corps is a 501c3 nonprofit dedicated to cultivating global citizens through education, service, and travel. By offering transferable college credit and donor-funded scholarships, GCAC actively builds pathways between rural high schools, universities, and a robust network of global nonprofit partners to provide travel program opportunities to underserved students. For more information visit www.globalcitizenadventurecorps.org.